Tips and Tricks #2

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This is the second entry in the Tips and Tricks series, where I can post smaller updates to some of the topics I have covered since the last Tips and Tricks. Like before, some tips have come from readers like you, while others have come while working on new minimate projects.

  1. I spotted a new kind of ultra-fine point permanent markers at my local office supply store called TUL, so I bought the 5-pack pictured above. They had a similar price to Sharpies, and they looked much nicer. Plus they promise to be fade-resistant, which is a problem I have had with Sharpies in the past. So far the TUL pens seem to work exactly the same as Sharpies. They write smoothly on minimate surfaces, and occasionally clog up until you make circles on a piece of scrap paper. The ink dries quickly and they are more comfortable to hold than Sharpies. If you have a choice between the two, I would get the TUL ones.
  2. My original Face Decal Video recommended applying decals from left to right. This worked well for the brand of decals I was using at the time. However, since I switched to (and recommended) the white decals from Papilio, I have discovered that face decals are easier to apply from the top down with this brand. After soaking the decal, hold it above the minimates head, and push it down onto the head from the middle of the decal with your thumb, and then finish wrapping it around the sides of the head.
  3. Speaking of Papilio decals, I have also found that the clear decals need to soak longer than the white ones. For both kinds, hold the decal underwater for 10 seconds. With the white decals, set it aside for 45 seconds before applying. With the clear decals, set it aside for 75 seconds before applying. At 45 seconds, the clear ones break apart for me. They need that extra 30 seconds to loosen up.
  4. When you are printing decals, try out different printer settings for different results. I usually use the setting for DTP (Desk Top Publishing). But for my Cybermen custom I used the CAD setting, which printed the lines thinner but clearer, which worked well for the machinery on the decal. For the decals to print correctly, I have to tell the printer it is a transparency. I also use the settings for the highest quality and highest resolution.
  5. In my Helping Hands review, TM2 Dinobot recommended using Plasti-Dip instead of duct tape to protect minimate surfaces while holding them securely. I mentioned this in the last Tips and Tricks, but I have tried this for myself since then, and I am really happy with the results.
  6. I found another toy photography article online showing how to take great pictures of your figures. This article uses different methods than the one I referenced in an earlier post.
  7. After I posted my Citadel vs Model Masters article, three different people e-mailed me and recommended that I wash my parts in soapy water before using Citadel paint on them. This will remove the factory topcoat and will help the paint stick to the surface. I have tested this, and it works like a charm. Knowing this, I can recommend Citadel over Model Masters for minimate use by a small margin, although both are excellent paints.

That’s all for this time. Keep sending me those emails and comments for a future Tips and Tricks article!

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2 Responses

  1. Shamrock says:

    One question on those markers: do they have that greenish/purplish reflection that Sharpies have in certain lights?