Comparing Inkjet Sticker Paper

Last year we experimented with several brands of inkjet sticker paper in order to find the best inkjet-based solution for Minimates. We finally settled on the our Inkjet Vinyl Sticker Paper that we currently carry in our store. Recently, we heard from youbastards over at MMV about another type of inkjet sticker paper that we missed the first time around – Glossy Photo Adhesive Paper by Papilio. I ordered a pack to experiment with, and here are the results:

I printed Silver Banshee stickers using both the Inkjet Vinyl Sticker Paper (which I will call the matte paper from now on) and the Glossy Photo Adhesive Paper (which I will call the glossy paper). Both papers captured the details beautifully, and my cheap inkjet printer had no problems with the paper. The Minimate on the left uses the matte paper, and the one on the right is the glossy paper.

The glossy paper is quite thick compared to the matte paper. After applying it on the Minimate, it is easier to notice that a sticker is on the surface. Also, when wrapping it around a Minimate head, the thickness prevents it from staying in place in the back. But a little super glued fixes this. The matte paper stays in place quite well, even better than the laser paper we used last year (more details on our new laser paper coming soon).

Minimates usually have a semi-gloss finish. If you are picky about that sort of thing, the matte paper is too matte, and the glossy paper is too glossy. In person, the extra gloss is more noticeable than the lack of gloss. This effect can be evened out by spraying the matte stickers with semi-gloss clear acrylic paint, or matte paint (sometimes called dull coat) for the glossy stickers. In the end, I prefer the matte paper, and I will be sticking with that for our store. But the glossy paper looks beautiful, and with a little of the clear spray mentioned above, I think it can make some great customs as well.

UPDATE: It looks like youbastards was actually using the Glossy Adhesive Film, as opposed to the paper. He is sending me a sample to try, and I will post an update once I am able to experiment with it!

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80 Customs: A Minimate Wedding

My friend Sean commissioned my largest customizing project ever: 80 minimates for his wedding back in November 2011. I just received some photos from the wedding photographer, and I thought I would make a short video about this fun project:

The other part of this project was to make a short story starring Sean and Mysa that would play at their wedding reception before some photo slideshows. They both love Doctor Who, so I made this video for them:

As you can see, I had a great time with both projects. If minimates had existed back when I got married, I would definitely have made some for our wedding cake.

The previous minimates I made for Sean were for his comics called Penance: The Trial of the Century. I also made some mock ads which were featured at the end of each issue, and were collected in the graphic novel:

I look forward to whatever project Sean is cooking up next!

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My Christmas Present: A Photo Studio Kit!

Tonight my family celebrated Christmas with my side of the family. One of my presents was a CowboyStudio Photo Studio Light Tent Kit in a Box (and also Skyrim for the Xbox 360!). I have wanted one of these studio kits for a long time, but I never ended up buying one for myself, so it was a nice surprise. As soon as we got home, I wanted to try it out. I will let you decide if it makes a difference. :)

The kit comes with a carrying case that folds out into a soft light tent, along with two table lights, a camera stand, and four color backgrounds. It didn’t come with instructions, but after looking at the picture again on Amazon, it was self-explanatory. I had the whole thing set up in 5 minutes. Here is the manufacturer’s shot of everything together (click any image in this post to enlarge it):

The camera stand was particularly helpful, as the main arm can bend forward to minimate level, while the part that holds the camera can rotate to almost any angle. I went with the white background for my shots, so I could compare them to my usual set-up. Here is a shot of my set-up:

For my first victim, I chose a custom of Jack O’Neill from Stargate SG-1 that I have been working on. My usual set-up for photos is a sheet of white paper and a desk lamp. Here is a shot of jack with my usual set-up:

And here is one of Jack with the new studio kit:

What do you think? Does the studio kit make a difference?

 

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Creating a Minimate Comic Part 3

I was going to post about our new inkjet sticker paper this week, but a board member at MMV pointed me towards a different kind of inkjet sticker paper that worked well for him on Minimate customs. I am going to hold off on that post until I am able to test this other paper, and then I can give the breakdown on both papers together.

So instead, I am posting the third part of our Creating a Minimate Comic series! This part will focus on bringing the characters to life through their facial expressions and movements.

Making a comic book using mostly photos of Minimates makes it difficult to have the characters express themselves as well as a hand drawn comic. One way in which I tried to jump this particular hurdle was to create many different facial expressions for each character. This also meant creating many different physical heads for each character. If you look in my ProtoPlanet case where I keep all of my figures, the heads outnumber the other pieces 10 to 1!

The character with the widest range of expressions is Anuel. You will see even more sides of her character in ProtoPlanet #2, and I needed a wide range of emotions for her in different scenes. Here are a handful of the expressions I made for her:

Also certain panels required that I tweak the character’s face in Photoshop later, such as moving their pupils to focus in the right direction.

And of course, these facial expressions need to work in tandem with the character’s body movements. It takes a lot of careful posing (and a lot of display putty) to capture emotion through a pose on a 2″ figure. I tended to overexaggerate if anything, probably from reading How to Draw Comics the Marvel Way too many times as a kid. :)

Here is one frame from the first comic as an example:

Not only is Anuel yelling and pointing, but her legs are in a wide stance, her hips are slightly turned out, and the position of the non-pointing hand makes the pointing hand even more dramatic. Plus the camera angle is set higher than eye level to match Anuel’s focus.

All of these facial and body changes are a lot of work, but I think it really helps the comic to be more fully developed.

I hope you have enjoyed another look into the development of ProtoPlanet #2, which is about 90% finished right now, and will be released before Christmas!

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How To Make Celebrity Face Decals

Some celebrity faces are hard for toy makers and customizers to portray accurately. For example, try to find a good Harrison Ford likeness among the dozens of Han Solo and Indiana Jones figures out there. For every good one there are at least ten bad ones! Whenever I come across a celebrity face that is difficult to nail in the Minimate style, I use the following “trace and stretch” method.
(Click any images below to view larger versions)

For this project I am going to be making Orlando Bloom as Will Turner in Pirates of the Caribbean, and I will be using Adobe Illustrator (free 30 day trial available here). However, you could use these same techniques with other software packages as well.

I start with a clear, front facing shot of the actor (as seen at the top of this post). I place it in Illustrator, and I zoom into the left eye to start.

Using the pen tool with a clear stroke and a black fill, I trace around the outer part of his eye, as seen above. I try to make this as exact as possible, and if the fill ever overlaps something and obscures my view, I reverse the colors temporarily.

Now I want that black shape out of my way so I can see the next part of Will’s eye, so I move it all the way to the back  (CTRL + SHIFT + [ on the PC) in the stack. Next I choose white as my fill color and I trace the white area inside of his eye.

I move the white area all the way to the back again, but then I move it forward one time (CTRL + ] ), so it is in front of the black area (even though I can’t see it since it is behind the photo). Next I choose a black fill color and I create an opaque circle the size of the pupil.

Since the pupil is too large to be seen completely, I erase the top part of the pupil with the eraser tool.

I copy this shape and paste it, changing the color to brown. I resize it so it is slightly smaller than the first pupil shape. I do this again with black again, as shown above.

I move these shapes to the back as a group, and then move them forward twice so they are in front of the black and white shapes that I made before. For the final part of the eye, I create a white reflection to match the one in the photo. I keep moving items to the back so they don’t get in my way when I am trying to match the photo.

Next, I use the eyedropper tool to match Will’s eyebrow color. I use the pen tool with this brown color as the fill color, and I carefully draw the shape of his eyebrow.

I repeat this process with the left side of Will’s mustache and stubble. We only need to do the left side, because we will be reflecting everything to the right later.

Here is how the image looks after adding more of his face details (I moved the photo to the back of the stack). The trick is to choose which features will define the actor’s face without adding every mark and wrinkle. If you add everything, the actor starts to look very old.

Now I get rid of the reference photo and paste in a blank minimate face background. I highlight Will’s face and get him ready to move into place. He will still need several adjustments in order to fit the minimate style.

As you can see, despite looking like the actor, the proportions are wrong for a minimate. The eye needs to be much larger, and the face needs to be wider.

This image shows the face after I enlarged the eye and stretched the design horizontally. Now it still resembles the actor, but it also is starting to look more like a minimate.

After reflecting the design horizontally and moving the eye reflection to the same spot in both eyes, the face decal is complete!

This same technique will work for almost any character’s face. Just remember to shift everything to the minimate style after you have finished drawing the important parts. I will post the full Will Turner design here once I am finished with the custom.

Good luck with your customs, and let me know if you have any questions regarding this technique! Our next update will feature a new kind of inkjet sticker paper that you can use to print decals like this one. :)

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